The event in Dubrovnik was organised by the Dubrovnik branch office of the Croatian Heritage Foundation and the Dubrovačka baština heritage organisation, in collaboration with the Kumpanjija association of Blato, the tourism board of the Blato municipality, and the Blatskim fižuli culture association.
The lumblija sweetmeat of Korčula, the n’oublie pas (“do not forget me”) sweet bread, is the first listed product in the county, having received the coveted restricted geographical origin label. Natives of the Adriatic island gathered at the lazzaretos of Dubrovnik on 21 October to announce their Heritage Flavours and Aromas: Blato Lumblija Day event.
“This treat has been prepared in Blato for centuries and spread to other parts of Korčula,” said Stjepan Bačić, president of the Kumpanjija association, adding that “The geographic origin protection was sought in order to prevent similar treats produced elsewhere from appearing with the name lumblija.” This is why the association moved to initiate the procedure to protect this product, working closely with the olive growers’ association in Vela Luka. This year they finally secured the label. “This means that people who want to make a proper lumblija must stick to the two original recipes, one used in Blato and the other in Vela Luka, two neighbouring villages on the island,” Bačić explained. The critical ingredient, of course, is the effort the people who make the treat put into achieving the proper balance of ingredients.
Bačić noted that four family operated farms are currently active in producing lumblija following the original recipe and that an effort was being made to pass on the tradition to young people.
The treat encapsulates the scents and flavours of the island and is close to the hearts of people that moved away from the island.
“When people were moving out of Korčula en masse in the early twentieth century this sweetmeat was often all they took with them, because it kept well and was very satisfying,” notes Bačić, adding that, “It was in fact the aroma and the flavour of this treat that reminded them of the old country.”
At the time people were also moving out of the islands of Brač, Hvar, and Vis in great numbers, and the group is working with locals to launch a project that brings four products from these four islands together, all of which have special meaning to islanders that found a new home abroad.
Ivana Sardelić of the Blatski fižuli culture association, spoke of the legend associated with the lumblija. The story goes that a young woman in Korčula and a French baker and soldier fell in love during the French occupation of the region. When he was compelled to leave, he baked her the sweetmeat with the message n’oublie pas (“do not forget me”). Her improper pronunciation of the foreign word is said to have come to us as lumblija.
Ms Sardelić also noted that in Blato housewives made this sweet bread and would send it to those abroad as a symbol of remembrance. In the past the sweetmeat was made around All Saint’s Day, and this tradition lives on, although it is also now available year-round. According to Maja Šeparović of the tourism board of the Blato municipality one of the chief ingredients is a young wine made of local grapes, reduced by cooking it slowly over a couple of hours to produce a dark sweet syrup.
Fanita Šeman, one of the leaders of the Kumpanjija association notes that good will and love are also key ingredients in making this sweet bread. The process, she notes, takes about one day, and involves chopping up walnuts and almonds and toasting them. Some of the other ingredients are flour, sugar, dried fruit, local oranges and lemon, herbs, nutmeg, coriander, rose spirit and figs. She also notes that the locals insist that three kinds of fat should be used: olive oil, lard, and butter or margarine. Once the dough has risen the ingredients are combined, taking care to combine them warm. She notes that her own grandmother insisted that the best way was to knead the dough and other ingredients one day and bake it the next.
People who draw their ancestry from this island now live around the world, from South America to Australia, and continue to make this sweetmeat. Lumblija has become an essential part of the local tourism offer.
At the event in Dubrovnik the participants sampled this treat. Marijanka Knego noted the full flavour produced by the excellent blend of ingredients, producing the perfect flavour, not too sweet and satisfying every time. Also on hand for the sampling were Dubravka Sarić, Ivo Mujo and Nikolina Trojić.
“The culinary traditions are part of our identity,” said Mujo, adding that, “The people of Korčula have the lumblija, the people of Konavle their green minestrone. Everyone has their story to tell and their pride to share. The variety of traditional dishes and local produce is our wealth. This treat reminds me of times past, of winter months, it’s excellent.”
Of course, the islanders say that lumblija is best enjoyed on the island. “I enjoyed the treat in Blato on Korčula,” said Nikolina Trojić, “And it was great. It was an excursion, with a relaxed atmosphere and, of course, that makes everything better. The mouth feel is reminiscent of the pandišpanj biscuit, but lumblija is more aromatic.”
“It’s wonderful,” says Dubravka Sarić. “This one I’m having now is the best. It reminds me of the sweetmeat we make for Christmas here in Dubrovnik, but his includes the reduced young wine and that makes all the difference. Packed with flavour, memories of childhood and festivals; a wonderful treat with a wonderful message: never forget me.”
The event in Dubrovnik was organised by the Dubrovnik branch office of the Croatian Heritage Foundation and the Dubrovačka baština heritage organisation, in collaboration with the Kumpanjija association of Blato, the tourism board of the Blato municipality, and the Blatskim fižuli culture association.
(Kristina Filičić / Dubrovački vjesnik)